The Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Cartier Santos Chronograph WSSA0017 review: a square steel chronograph with ADLC bezel, in-house caliber 1904-CH MC, and the unmistakable Cartier design DNA.
Cartier has always been more than a watchmaker. It's a design house that happens to build watches, and the Santos might be its boldest creation. I bought this Santos Chronograph (Ref. WSSA0017) in December 2023, long after Cartier had already won me over. My first nice watch was a Tank Francaise Chronograph, which I bought to celebrate my first job, and it set the tone for how I think about watches: elegance with a bit of engineering attitude.
The Santos Chronograph takes that early love of Cartier and turns up the volume. It's unmistakably Cartier but more assertive, more technical, and a little rebellious. I've always liked the square design language, and the chronograph complication adds another layer of symmetry and purpose. The result is a watch that feels refined, confident, and quietly daring.
Brand context and legacy
Cartier's story goes back to 1847, when Louis-Francois Cartier took over his master's workshop in Paris. Within a few decades, the name had become shorthand for elegance and innovation, both in jewelry and in watchmaking.
The Santos sits right at the center of that history. Designed in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, it solved a simple but crucial problem: how to check the time while flying without fumbling for a pocket watch. That design - the square case, Roman numerals, and visible screws - became one of Cartier's most recognizable signatures.
For me, the Santos isn't just design history; it's a symbol of purpose-built watchmaking. It was one of the first wristwatches created for real utility. I already owned a regular Santos and a Calibre de Cartier, but the Chronograph felt like a natural evolution. My unattainable grail is the Tortue Monopussoir (Ref. 2762), so this piece scratches that single-pusher itch without the financial pain.
Case and dial
At 43.3 mm, this is a big watch, but Cartier knows how to make large cases wear gracefully. The softened corners and curved lugs make it sit perfectly on my 19 cm wrist - it's the best-fitting square watch I own. The ADLC black bezel against the brushed steel body gives it a modern, slightly stealthy vibe. Cartier doesn't do many black watches, but when it does, it nails them.
Despite everything going on, the dial feels balanced. The opaline finish diffuses light beautifully, and the Roman numerals remain legible and unmistakably Cartier. Three subdials nestle into the layout without feeling cramped. The sword hands glow bright when needed, and the eight screws on the bezel are still there, tying this chronograph directly back to its roots in early aviation.
It's a complex design that somehow never loses composure. That's classic Cartier: everything looks effortless because it's been obsessed over.
Movement and functionality
Inside beats Cartier's in-house Caliber 1904-CH MC, a solid movement built with a vertical clutch and column wheel - the kind of specs you'd find in serious chronographs. It feels as good as it sounds on paper.
The start and stop pusher is built into the left side of the case, while reset is integrated into the crown. It's quirky, it's clever, and it's very Cartier. Once you get used to the layout, it feels intuitive. The pushers have a crisp click and a mechanical honesty you can feel.
I don't use the chronograph much, but when I do, the operation feels satisfying. Accuracy has been excellent, and the automatic winding keeps it running smoothly. I tend to sell watches that don't hold my interest, but this one's stayed with me. It's a keeper.
On the wrist
The Santos Chronograph wears better than its size suggests. The curved lugs hug the wrist, and the square shape somehow feels natural. At just under 13 mm thick, it's slim enough for a jacket cuff but stands its ground visually. This isn't a shy watch - it's meant to be seen.
I wear it often but not recklessly. The polished steel is a scratch magnet, and I want it to stay clean. It's more casual than a dress watch but carries itself with enough refinement to handle almost anything short of a black-tie event. On the wrist it feels solid, balanced, and quietly confident.
Straps and versatility
Cartier includes both leather and rubber straps, and both use the QuickSwitch system - one of the best strap mechanisms in the business. No tools, no stress, just click and go.
For me, the rubber strap is the clear choice. It integrates perfectly with the case and matches the sporty edge of the black bezel. The leather strap is fine, but it changes the character of the watch in a way that doesn't feel right. And the lack of a bracelet? Not an issue. If you want a bracelet, buy the standard Santos. The Chronograph belongs on rubber.
Comparisons
Inside Cartier's own lineup, this is the boldest version of the Santos design. It's more modern than the classic models and has a lot more presence than the Tank. I looked seriously at the Santos Skeleton (Ref. WHSA0009), but I kept coming back to the chronograph.
Stacked against competitors like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph or the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, the Cartier plays a different game. It's not chasing maximum specs or timing bragging rights. It's about design, history, and personality. The others are instruments. The Cartier is sculpture.
Final thoughts
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph WSSA0017 is more than a modern luxury chronograph; it's a continuation of one of the most important design stories in watchmaking. Cartier has managed to evolve the Santos without losing its original charm. The mix of steel and ADLC, the clever pusher layout, and the unmistakable design DNA make it a standout.
It's not discreet, and it's not trying to be. It's for collectors who love the geometry of the square case and the idea that a chronograph can be both elegant and tough. In an industry crowded with lookalike sports watches, this one still feels unique.
For me, it's the perfect example of what Cartier does best: timeless design that still feels alive in the present. It's a watch that doesn't just tell time - it tells a story.
Bibliography
- Cartier Official Product Page – CRWSSA0017 (Santos de Cartier Chronograph)
- Mayors Listing for Santos de Cartier Chronograph WSSA0017
- Cellini Jewelers – Santos de Cartier Chronograph Extra Large
- Cartier Caliber 1904-CH MC Overview
- Swiss Watch Expo – Santos XL Chronograph Steel ADLC (WSSA0017)
- Wempe – Santos de Cartier Chronograph XL Model (WSSA0017)
